ANTONINI RADIATOR, INC.
COOLANT PROBLEMS. DIAGNOSTIC, PROBLEMS, TESTING PROCEDURES, AND CURES.
ANTONINI RADIATOR, INC.
WHY IS COOLANT DIAGNOSTICS IMPORTANT?
THE PROBLEMS AND THE CURES
BY: ROBERT L. ANTONINI, PRESIDENT, ANTONINI RADIATOR, INC.
ANTONINI RADIATOR, INC.
COOLING SYSTEM PROBLEMS BASED ON COOLANT DETERIORATION.
Why do radiators and heaters fail? What are some of the reasons that radiators, heaters, and heat exchangers fail in an internal combustion engine cooling system? Why does one radiator last for only a year, whereas the next will last for 40? There are many reasons for radiator failures, ranging from “fin rot,” poorly made radiators and cores, internal deterioration, and even the chemistry of the engine’s coolant. This information sheet will concentrate on the aspects of the coolant—the antifreeze in the system, its composition, and its decomposition. In most cases, the decomposition of the coolant is what causes the majority of cooling system problems. To avoid this, manufacturers have tried “extended life” coolants, additives, rust inhibitors, pre-mixes, and a ton of other remedies. At Antonini Radiator, Inc., the only solution we have seen to prevent cooling system problems based on internal deterioration is a good preventive maintenance program with regular interval flush-and-fills and internal radiator cleaning by either ultrasonics, rod-outs, Antrad Air Induction Cleaning, or Antrad Vibra-Cleaning. Like anything else, there is no substitute for doing a job right, and the price tag for a good job done right is a lot cheaper than a new engine!
Antifreeze is a very important element of today’s cooling systems. Pure water, alcohol, pure antifreeze, or depleted antifreeze will not last in today’s engines and will damage a radiator or heater core almost immediately. Even the ratio of antifreeze to water is critical, as is the composition of the water itself. There are even disparities in antifreeze manufacturers’ products that do not allow coolants to be interchanged. Antifreeze and its composition are very important, especially in aluminum engines. The breakdown or decomposition of this solution can cause major engine failure.
Here are some diagnostically curable radiator/heat exchanger and internal engine problems, which can occur once the coolant begins to decompose. The decomposition rate of the coolant is accelerated once the process begins and is amplified by increased engine temperatures, restricted flow rates, and suspended particles. These coolant problems can all be determined with the proper diagnostic tests performed on the coolant itself, and special attention should be considered when the cooling system is refilled and maintained. Antonini Radiator, Inc., offers coolant test kits to help diagnose these problems, as well as on-site, hands-on training programs to teach individuals how to find a coolant problem. You can always count on Antonini Radiator, Inc., to be your true cooling system professionals. Our reputation was built on knowledge, experience, and the highest quality products and repairs possible.
THE PROBLEMS
COOLANT DECOMPOSITION-RELATED PROBLEMS
I. EROSION
a. Liquid
b. Steam
c. Impingement/abrasive
II. CORROSION
a. Galvanic
1. Bi-metal
2. Single-metal
III. ELECTROLYSIS
IV. SILICATE GELLING
V. OXIDATION
THE CURES
THE PROBLEMS:
A. LIQUID EROSION (CAVITATION). Liquid erosion occurs mostly in soft metals like aluminum. In theory, it is the wearing away of a material because a liquid source is flowing over it. It is primarily due to cavitation and can be seen commonly in a cooling system at water pumps, thermostat housings, and upper radiator inlets. Cavitation is due to a change in water pressure causing the water to “boil” and produce a bubble stream.
Water normally boils at 212°F. With coolant and under pressure (15-lb. pressure cap), the boiling point changes to approximately 235-240°F. But if the pressure is reduced from normal atmospheric sea-level pressure, the coolant will “boil” at a reduced temperature. This process is the same as evacuating an air conditioning system with a suction pump before introducing Freon. (When evacuating the air conditioning system using a vacuum pump, you are actually lowering the atmospheric pressure of the system, allowing moisture and contaminates to “boil away.”) The coolant at the water pump undergoes a large air pressure change and will change under these conditions from a liquid to a gas and then back, forming bubbles as it changes its material state. Anytime atmospheric pressure is reduced, like at the water pump, the boiling point of a liquid is reduced.
This “boiling” of the coolant produces vapor bubbles, which form a bubble stream. If there is a rapid change in the air pressure for the coolant, excessive cavitation (due to the bubble’s shock waves wearing away at the engine’s surface materials) occurs. These vapor bubbles implode when pressure is increased and produce shock waves. These are most likely to occur at the water pump and at cylinder liners on diesel engines. At a water pump, the pump outlet has a higher pressure than at the pump inlet. The surface area closest to the impellers (pump outlet) is the most prone to cavitation, mostly on aluminum water pumps. Next time you pull an aluminum water pump off a vehicle, check it for little pinholes close to the gasket surface. Those pinholes are a result of cavitation, or liquid erosion. This can usually be traced to coolant breakdown because the metal protectors in the coolant are depleted, or there is blockage in the radiator or heater that’s restricting coolant flow, which in turn changes the pressure, causing the “boiling” effect. There are also some engine design characteristics that contribute to the problem.
B. STEAM EROSION. Steam erosion normally occurs at the radiator inlet connection, usually at the top tank closest to the thermostat housing. It is usually associated with low coolant levels, which allows steam to dissipate the coolant at the top of the radiator inlet hose and the radiator inlet. A steam pocket is forced between the top of the inlet connection and the coolant, a bubble stream forms, the radiator reduces the coolant temperature, the bubbles then implode, and this implosion “eats away” at the radiator. Plastic tank radiators, because of the softer composition material, are the most common victims of steam erosion. Steam erosion will show up as busted inlet connections, cracks in the inlet tank on the side opposite the inlet connection, or a failed rubber tank gasket. Again, depleted antifreeze, a bad thermostat, or low coolant levels are usually the major forces causing steam erosion.
C. IMPINGEMENT/ABRASIVE EROSION. Impingement erosion is actually turbulence caused by high liquid velocities usually at the water pump or injector surfaces and is usually associated with aluminum or softer composition materials. This is the eating away of the surface material based on a very high-velocity liquid with suspended solid particles (coolant with metal particles from the engine, etc.) at heated temperatures flowing rapidly across a surface. The higher the liquid’s velocity, the more embedded particles, the more the coolant is deteriorated, the more severe the problem. The most common factors that lead to impingement erosion are: 1) high temperatures, 2) high fluid velocity, 3) high particle suspension, 4) high fluid viscosity, and 5) low PH. Generally, the harder a material, the less prone the material is to impingement erosion. Flow rates of different metals are determined to find the maximum rate of flow before impingement erosion occurs. These maximum flow rates for different metals before impingement erosion occurs are:
1) Aluminum = 15 feet per second
2) Cast iron = 33 feet per second
3) Aluminum radiator/heater tubes = 7-9 feet per second
It is easy to see by these numbers why aluminum heaters and radiator tubes fail if coolant decomposition is evident and a large amount of suspended particles are evident in the coolant. Suspended particles in the depleted antifreeze (usually aluminum oxide particles) bombard the thin-walled aluminum radiator tubes, which wear away the interior of the tubes until leaks occur. Failed cross-sections of aluminum radiator tubes show drastic impingement/abrasion erosion, which can occur in periods as short as two weeks. “Worn-out” antifreeze, cooling systems with high levels of aluminum oxide, or excessively high engine temperatures are usually the cause of impingement/abrasive erosion. The accelerated levels of particles must be checked and the particles eliminated to avoid cooling system failure.
II. CORROSION. Corrosion is the single most common cause of radiator blockage and failure, period. Whether coolant manufacturers, radiator companies, or others want to believe this or not, at Antonini Radiator, Inc., we have found that internal corrosion due to cooling system neglect is the largest cause of radiator failures. Many factors contribute to internal radiator corrosion, including: PH, chlorides, water hardness, oxygen, poor radiator fills, depleted coolant, and high temperatures. PH, a measurement of an element’s range of being an acid or a base element, plays an important role in correct coolant management and therefore corrosion. If PH is low, the coolant is considered acidic; if PH is high, it’s basic. Acidic cooling systems fail rapidly. PH must be maintained between 8.5 and 10.0 to slow the corrosion process.
What is corrosion? Corrosion is the process of atoms from metals, in the presence of water or atmospheric moisture, leaving a metal surface or forming chemical compounds on another surface. These metal alloys are trying to return to their original ore state, as they were before they became refined metals. The refining process changed the metals from a stable element into an unstable alloy, which will try to seek its original composition. As these alloys seek their original composition, they deposit their own surface materials onto another substance. This depositing process is what we know as corrosion and is an electro-chemical process. Ever see the white substance that forms around steel bolts in aluminum threads? This substance is stronger than glue and usually bonds so well that the aluminum threads come out when the bolt is removed.
The different effects that cooling system corrosion causes are called pitting, crevice, solder bloom, and chemical corrosion. Solder bloom was a catch-all phrase in the ’80s for any radiator blockage problem (the white corrosion that forms around the top of the radiator tubes, usually on the inlet side because of high temperatures, and usually about 3 inches down from the top header plate) and was the main reason for the newer “ultra-fused” or “beta-weld” radiator cores, which welded the tubes to the radiator header plate, eliminating a solder joint, thereby eliminating the disparity of the metals and avoiding this white corrosion.
Every metal has its own different corrosion rates. The metals typically found in today’s cooling systems include: cast iron, steel, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, brass, and lead. Of these, stainless steel is the most corrosion resistant, brass is not far behind stainless steel as being corrosion resistant, and aluminum is the least corrosion resistant and by its nature has a natural tendency to corrode in any environment. At one time, just about every car radiator was made of brass and resisted internal corrosion, but due to vehicle weight requirements, cost containment, etc., new aluminum radiators that are more susceptible to corrosion have made the brass radiator virtually obsolete. It is said that very few people have ever actually touched real aluminum; we actually touch a layer of oxide corrosion on the aluminum, which is formed as soon as the refined ore touches the air. This is why aluminum radiator tubes are so difficult to weld; they are very thin and a layer of corrosion immediately forms on the surface the moment it is done being cleaned. This oxide coating repels the heat from the torch, and if more heat is applied, the tube will burn through. Although Mig and Tig welding and aluminum solders have been developed to make the repair process more possible, life isn’t easy being a radiator repairman!
All of these forms of corrosion are usually evident in a neglected radiator’s inlet tank. The usual cause of this is depleted, neglected antifreeze, compounded with a reaction between the dissimilar metals in the coolant and the surfaces that they come in contact with. Corrosion itself is unavoidable, however, it can be controlled with proper vehicle maintenance. Broken down, the major form of corrosion is galvanic, which can be either bi-metal or single-metal corrosion cells.
A. GALVANIC CORROSION: Galvanic corrosion is a form of corrosion that is characterized by spontaneous electro-chemical voltage developed between electrically joined dissimilar metals immersed in a conductive solution. Voltage occurs naturally between the dissimilar metals and is called galvanic activity. There is no other source of electricity added, just a flow of electrons from one metal to the other. In galvanic corrosion, only one metal corrodes (the more reactive one). The less reactive metal, the “noble metal,” gets the electrons from the other metals and corrodes. Metals are ranked by their ability to corrode in relationship to other metals by the amount of voltage applied; this ranking is called an “EFM,” or electromotive force. Lead used in solder and in some radiator manufacturing is more acceptable to corrode than the brass or copper that it normally comes in contact with. That is why a radiator becomes not repairable “because you left it too long in your acid bath.” (First off, what really is an acid bath? Did you ever see one? I’m in this business all my life and never have! Do they really use pure acid and a bathtub? Why doesn’t the container holding it eat away? Why would some moron stick metal in pure acid knowing it will eat away?) What really happened is that after cleaning, such as ultrasonically cleaning, when the corrosion is cleaned from the header plate, the tube joint (which was solder) has corroded away, causing leaks at the gap where the solder used to be.
When you have two or more of these dissimilar metals immersed in a conductive fluid (an electrolyte), a natural electric reaction takes place where electrons will form ions and “steal” electrons from each other and surface material as well. This stealing of electrons—a flow of electrons—is called ionic migration. If you have two or more metals, in our case one being lead (from the solder), immersed in a conductive solution with an acidic PH (antifreeze) in a closed container (the radiator), with “electric current” (ionic migration), you basically created a battery. Everyone has seen the white corrosion that forms at battery terminals. A radiator with depleted, neglected antifreeze experiences the same effect. That is why again, good preventive maintenance and thorough flush-and-fills are important. Antifreeze has an “inhibitor package” in it that slows this migration process and stabilizes the PH. If the radiator is properly cleaned and maintained, this corrosion process will be greatly reduced.
1. BI-METAL CORROSION. Bi-metal corrosion is the corrosion process that takes place when more than two dissimilar metals are in physical and electrical contact with each other. This is not only possible inside a radiator but on the air side as well, where the brass tubes are joined to the copper fins with solder. The electrolyte is air (moisture and water) and other road materials that land on the radiator surface.
2. SINGLE-METAL CORROSION . Single-metal corrosion can also occur on the metal itself if the metal is not homogenous and has physical properties such as stress, surface finish, grain structure, and differences in the solution that wets it (the electrolyte). This is why some radiator tubes in the middle of the core corrode from the inside, especially if the wetting agent (the antifreeze) is loaded with heavy metals. Even water may contain enough metal particles to be harmful to thin-walled aluminum radiator tubes. This is why distilled water should be used in the coolant mixture—never any type of well water. Well water usually contains too many heavy metals. Single-metal corrosion is usually the most common cause of aluminum core heater failures.
III. ELECTROLYSIS. Cooling system electrolysis is defined as the decomposition of a substance by an electrochemical process where there is an externally supplied energy source. The decomposition is usually the eating away of radiator tubes or heater core inlet tanks. This reaction can occur when stray voltage exists in a cooling system, resulting typically from a damaged or misrouted ground connection. The stray voltage establishes a plating cell, taking metal from one metal and depositing it on another. In other words, electrolysis occurs when electrical current routes itself through the engine’s coolant in search of an electrical ground, which is usually the radiator. Current can be introduced into the cooling system in many ways, but the two most common are a poor ground at the radiator’s electric fan or a poor ground from the starter motor to the engine block.
Electrolysis causes rapid damage to cooling systems. Eventually, all ground paths of a vehicle lead to the alternator ground, where it is bolted to the engine. The electrons produced by the alternator eventually return to the alternator after powering a vehicle’s electrical components, following many different paths, which include the coolant and radiator hoses. Whereas all these paths are available for the electrons to travel, the amount of current at the path is proportional to that path’s conductivity. Therefore, if the coolant is highly conductive, it can become an electron ground path. Heavy metals or particles immersed in the coolant due to neglected coolant can provide this ground path through the radiator or heater. If the radiator is mounted in rubber, the only available conductivity is through the coolant itself and the hoses. If the coolant is in good shape and not loaded with heavy metals, the conductivity path will be minimal unless there is a separate energy source applied to it. This separate energy source is usually a faulty ground wire from the electric cooling fan, etc. (I have even seen a car with the speaker wires grounded to the radiator.)
Voltage in excess of 0.10 volts is not acceptable. This can be checked at the radiator’s fillerneck; anything over 0.10 should never be allowed. Also, special grounds to isolate the voltage in a radiator should never be installed. The only proper repair method is to isolate the stray voltage and repair the ground. Antonini Radiator, Inc., teaches coolant electrolysis diagnostics methods and cures. Electrolysis is an important consideration in cooling system maintenance and should be checked regularly, especially after electrical components are installed. Never allow stray voltage to exceed 0.10 volts in the cooling system.
IV. COOLANT GELLING. Coolant gelling is the green, “Jell-O” looking substance that blocks radiator tubes, normally at the inlet side or near the drain cock. This was very prominent in the early and mid ’90s, when newer antifreeze recycling machines began appearing. This gel substance was usually due to too much of an inhibitor package (usually to control PH levels) being put into the coolant during the recycling process. The thought was, “If a little of this stuff is good, some more of it should be better.” Once in the system, the water pump stirred the coolant, it started separating, and the excessive inhibitors began breaking down with the like components clumping together and forming this gel-like substance. A lot of radiators were blocked with this “Jell-O,” and a lot of recycled antifreeze disposed of.
Only trust very good recyclers if using recycled antifreeze. If recycling the antifreeze yourself, follow the mixing procedures closely, and test the solution very thoroughly. The same goes with antifreeze pre-mixes. Use quality coolants only. Our philosophy is to use a good brand-name coolant and mix it our self with distilled water. Only this way can you be guaranteed what you are using. Once in the system, this “gel” has to be completely removed, or engine and radiator failure will result. This gel can only be found by proper coolant diagnostics. Antonini Radiator, Inc., has seen radiators with as high as 85% blockage due to gelling. Only a very good flush-and-fill with quality antifreeze can eliminate this gelling.
I.OXIDATION: Oxidation is the process in which metals begin changing molecular structure when oxygen is introduced to the substance. In a cooling system, oxidation is the “brown, chocolate milk” deterioration of the antifreeze, which is most prevalent in Ford and GM Dexcool systems. At Antonini Radiator, Inc., we have found that air (oxygen) is introduced into a cooling system due to small leaks in the system, usually at the hose clamps or the pressure cap. The cooling system “sucks” air in (usually the leaks are too small to seep coolant), and the metal and inhibitors in the antifreeze come in contact with the oxygen in the air and begin oxidizing, or changing to a rust color. A defective pressure cap will also allow enough air to enter the system and begin the oxidation process. Small metal particles (rust) begin to form, and sludge will form if neglected. This sludge will begin blocking radiator and heater core tubes immediately. The coolant must be completely removed, and fresh coolant installed, after stopping the air seepage. An oxidation problem can be a severe headache trying to track down where the air is being introduced into the system. Water pump gaskets, thermostat housings, hoses, and pressure caps can all produce small air leaks and have to be periodically maintained.
THE CURES
The single most important aspect of cooling system failures is neglect, therefore the most important cure is a good maintenance schedule with periodic coolant analysis/diagnostics followed by flush-and-fills at recommended intervals. Nothing is more important than proper maintenance. Some of the above problems such as erosion and corrosion cannot be stopped; they may either be a designed aspect of the cooling system or else a force of nature. They can, however, have their destructive nature slowed down. All of the above problems can be dealt with by using proper diagnostic and repair procedures.
I. Diagnostics. If you don’t know what the problem is, you can’t fix it. For cooling systems, this is very true. Antifreeze should be checked at regular intervals. Antonini Radiator, Inc., recommends coolant diagnostics be done at every oil change or at intervals of not more than 6 months to head off a problem before it occurs. The procedure is more intense than just “popping off the cap and seeing if it’s green.” (These days, it’s probably anything but green.) We sell a cooling system test kit and give instructional procedures to sample the coolant and read the sampling results. We have also found that test strips by themselves are very inadequate. We believe our job as a good mechanic is to go much further than a test strip to solve a coolant problem.
At Antonini Radiator, Inc., we test coolant for aluminum oxide particles, proper PH, degree of winterization protection, and water hardness. When possible, we check for internal radiator corrosion. We also check radiator pressure caps, reservoir recovery tanks, overflow hoses, and the outside of the radiator (for corrosion). This is also a good time to check hoses, belts, thermostats, and fans. Check the internal blockage of the radiator, look at the tubes and the amount of corrosion around them. If bad, get the radiator ultrasonically or Antrad Vibra-cleaned before permanent damage is done and the radiator is not repairable. Check for stray voltage in the cooling system. Remember that this is preventive maintenance. The cooling system should be thoroughly checked; again, you cannot fix something if you do not know what’s wrong with it. Our test kit is very economical and pays for itself with the first vehicle serviced. Only in this manner can you locate the source of a coolant problem!
II. Flush the system. Then, flush the system. Most systems need a good flush-and-fill every 3-4 years. Antonini Radiator, Inc., does not believe in extended-life coolants lasting over 4 years. After 4 years, the cooling system should be thoroughly flushed and cleaned. The recommended time is 3 years or 30,000 miles. Vehicle manufacturers and car salesmen will tell you no, but they won’t come get you when you’re broken down. A good flush-and-fill at regular intervals will alleviate many problems. Not just a “T” flush kit either—a very good, “take the hoses and thermostat off, check the water pump, and remove the heater hoses” flush. Only this way can you look into the system visually and inspect it for corrosion, etc. Some of our flushes, which we always do manually, take up to 1 hour. When the system is done being flushed, only clear water should be evident when the flow is checked. All by-pass hoses, other hoses, the heater core, thermostat housing, water pump, and heater control valves should be cleaned and checked. Start with a very clean system before introducing coolant.
All contaminants must be removed to avoid radiator failure. All the sludge, corrosion, “chocolate milk,” “Jell-O,” aluminum oxide particles, rust, etc. must be completely removed before the next step. This is the only way to guarantee that the coolant will not break down due to imbedded particles. There is no substitute for a good flush. In the long run, this saves time and new coolant system-related parts such as replacement radiators that would still fail if contaminates remain in the system. Do it right the first time; if not, you will be doing it the second time. And the third, and so on.
III. Inspect the parts. Check the hoses, thermostat, clutch fan, electric fan, etc. Check the ground wires. Inspect the radiator mounts. Don’t forget the radiator’s recovery system, the pressure cap, all the cooling system components. Failures on these components are not acceptable after the vehicle has just been serviced. Bad pressure caps cause a lot of problems, especially with oxidation and over-pressurization. Don’t forget to check for improper ground wires running to the radiator mounting system.
If the radiator shows signs of corrosion or deterioration, have it serviced professionally. If the radiator is ultrasonically or AntRad Vibra-cleaned periodically, it will greatly extend its life. We, of course, consider Antonini Radiator, Inc., to be the only name you need to know for superior cooling system component cleaning and repair.
IV. Use a very good coolant. Antonini Radiator, Inc., will only use brand-name coolants. Everyone knows the major brands. Use them. Who is “Cheepo Coolant, Inc.” anyway? All vehicle manufacturers now have specifications that the coolant must meet for inhibitor packages, metal content, buffers, etc. Don’t use junk. We’re not a big fan of recycled coolants either. Some contain esters, a chemical composition that depletes the inhibitor package and drastically lowers PH. Watch all PH levels. Proper PH should be between 8.5 and 11. We have tested new coolant out of the jug and got PH levels below 8. Anything below 8.5 becomes unstable and promotes corrosion. These are supposed to be “good” coolants yet do not even meet ASTM standards. A “good” coolant should be consistent in color, have the proper PH, have a good inhibitor package composed of borate, carboxylates, nitrates, nitrites, or phosphates, and will reach at least -35°F degree of protection with a proper water mix. A good coolant is the key to radiator longevity.
V. Use a good water mix. All antifreeze except pre-mixed must have water added to it to act as a catalyst. The water causes a reaction in the antifreeze to give the winterization and boil-over protection needed. Also, because antifreeze does not cool as good as water, it must have water mixed in it. Do not use well water. There are too many heavy metals in well water that will negatively react with the inhibitors in the coolant. Use either purified or distilled water. Always start with a 50-50 mix of antifreeze to water. Never go below 50% coolant; it may freeze and needs the water as a catalyst. Never go higher than 60% coolant; it won’t cool. The proper coolant mix is very important.
VI. Bleed the system well. All the air must be bled out of a cooling system to avoid over-pressurization and overheating. Some vehicles are notorious for bleeding air out of the systems. In the late ’80s, Cummins had the low-flow system, which when not bled properly caused many engine failures. Air pockets normally form at the radiator inlet or thermostat housing and will lead to overheating and oxidation of the coolant. All air pockets must be removed from the cooling system, and the hose’s placement checked to prevent trapped air.
VII. Check the system when finished. Always maintain the proper coolant level. When topping off the system, use an antifreeze mix—not just pure antifreeze. Check the hoses for tightness; this will eliminate air seepage that causes oxidation. Check for proper thermostat operation, etc.
SUMMARY
Remember that there is no substitute for proper maintenance and a job done correctly. Most cooling system failures can be avoided with proper maintenance, diagnostics, and service intervals. Coolant diagnostics can be an important tool: for a vehicle owner to eliminate downtime and future failures, for a mechanic to stop vehicle comebacks and lost wages, for a shop maintenance supervisor to keep your vehicles running, and for a repair shop service writer to sell your customer on this important vehicle service. Also, there is no substitute for knowledgeable professionals or the true cooling system specialists—Antonini Radiator, Inc. We sell cooling system diagnostic kits, and we teach mechanics how to read antifreeze samples, how to check vehicles for cooling system problems before they get out of hand, and how to provide proper cooling system maintenance. We are only a free phone call away at (800) 635-1132. Please feel free to call Antonini Radiator, Inc., for all your cooling system needs. We hope this publication has been informative and valuable. Antonini Radiator, Inc., appreciates the trust our customers place in us as the true cooling system professionals. We hope this solidifies that trust.
ANTONINI RADIATOR, INC., would like to acknowledge the following sources:
NARSA (National Automotive Radiator Service Association)
The Radiator Reporter
The Automotive Cooling Journal
Cool Profits Magazine
Modine Manufacturing
Prestone
Zerox
Text by Robert L. Antonini, President, Antonini Radiator, Inc.
Edited by David Caruso
ANTONINI RADIATOR, INC.
325 EAST RAILROAD STREET
POTTSVILLE, PA 17901
800*635*1132
570*622*3044
antradco@losch.net